As promised, this post is about the fence on my Sears Craftsman 10″ stationary table saw, model 315.228310.  It’s got a fussy fence.

I suspect the problem is related to two things about my fence.  First, the fence is relatively narrow, about 1 1/2″ wide, made of aluminum.  Second, it hooks in both the front and the back of the table saw.  Lets take these characteristics one at a time.

The first problem is the narrow width.  Now, I haven’t noticed it flex while I push a workpiece against it, so despite its narrow width and aluminum construction, it seems solid enough.

The trouble is that it hooks on a back rail as well as the normal front rail.  I believe this design was necessary because of the fence’s relatively insubstantial design – it wasn’t strong enough to be rock solid hooking only to a front rail like the Biesemeyer fences do.

These two features combine to make a fence that is particularly hard to count on.  Because it hooks on both the back and front rails, it is easy to get the fence canted either away from the blade, producing sloppy cuts, or toward the blade, producing a situation ripe for kickback – and serious injury.

On every single cut I perform, when I set the fence distance from the blade, I am careful to take precise measurements not only from the blade (to set the width of the cut), but also I measure the distance from the miter slot at the front of the table and at the back, and make sure they are identical.  If not, I tweak the fence position until it is correct.  I never skip this step!

Since the fence is so temperamental, this is a large reason why I think the splitter is so critical.  The splitter, when properly aligned, will help you avoid the kickback situations if the fence is set wrong, and the anti-kickback pawls on it will also grab the wood if the blade does want to kick it back, and will keep you safe in most situations.

So, needless to say, I would really like to replace this fence with a Biesemeyer or similar fence, that is substantial enough to stand on its own, and that I can trust to be rock solid once I set the distance from the blade.  The time I’ll save will be wonderful.

One last note about this.  Because the fence is so bad, I never use the measuring tape that is attached to the fence’s front rail.  In fact, I ultimately ended up moving the rails and the fence to the right by 6″, so that I could turn the space to the right of the blade from 24″ to 30″.  So the ruler is irrelevant anyway, even if I could trust it.

Next: A zero-clearance insert dilemma.